Surfing / my passion
Trying to explain the surfing experience is not an easy feat. To me this is one of the better attempts:
"I need the sea because it teaches me.
I don´t know if I learn music or awareness,
if it´s a single wave or its vast existence,
or only its harsh voice or its shining
suggestion of fishes and ships.
The fact is that until I fall asleep,
in some magnetic way I move in
the university of the waves."
Pablo Neruda
Denmark 2005 >>
Sweden, January 2007 >>
Ireland 2007 - 1 >>